Kewra/Keora/Kewda/Thalampoo Accord and Base: Guide to capturing the essence of Pandanus Odorifer
Kewra/Keora/Kewda/Thalampoo Accord for attar & fragrance: Capturing the essence of Pandanus Odorifer
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Category
Fragrance Accords and Bases
Author:
Arul Raj
Kewra, a fragrant flower with many names (Keora, Kewda, Thalampoo), has been captivating senses for centuries across Southeast Asia. Its unique aroma, reminiscent of a delicate blend of metallic, green, and chrysanthemum notes, has made it a cherished ingredient in traditional cuisine, religious ceremonies, and perfumery. The flower's essence, often extracted through hydro distillation, yields Kewra essential oil and Kewra water or "Kewra Jal," prized for its culinary and therapeutic applications.
In perfumery, Kewra offers a distinctive and exotic touch, evoking images of lush tropical landscapes and ancient traditions. Its complex aroma profile makes it a versatile ingredient, capable of enhancing both floral and woody compositions. In this article we explore ways to capture its essence in a captivating accord using key Kewra ingredients mentioned below.
The Kewra Accord: A Perfumer's Delight
Kewra's unique aroma is primarily attributed to two key aroma chemicals: Kewra Ether/Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether (aka PEME) and Terpinen-4-ol. These molecules, along with other trace materials, contribute to the flower's characteristic metallic, green, and floral nuances. The following formulations can be used in the creation of fine fragrances, kewra attars etc.
Kewra Accord Formula:
This accord carries the Kewra experience in to your formulation. A touch of it brings the nuances of the kewda profile into your formulation. You can use this accord in your bespoke creations or fragrance workshops
Kewra Base Formula:
This foundation captures the profile of Kewra to be used as a base, offering a cost-effective and consistent way to incorporate its aroma into your creations. Please refer to the formula break down.
Aromatic Profile of the materials used in the formulations:
- Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether (PEME): It delivers the signature metallic, green, and slightly floral character that defines Kewra's aroma.
- Terpinen-4-ol: Refreshing and invigorating element, this molecule adds a piney and slightly woody touch that harmonizes beautifully with the metallic notes.
- Bois De Rose Leaf RCO: With its freshness & transparent green undertones, it reinforces the watery freshness found in Kewra.
- Alpha Terpineol: Lending a delicate lilac-like aroma with a hint of sweetness, this compound further enriches the floral bouquet.
- Terpinyl Acetate Alpha: Provides a touch of herbaceous and coniferous freshness.
- Para Cymene: This molecule adds a clean, citrusy facet with a subtle woody undertone.
- Geraniol: A classic floral note, geraniol brings a sweet, rosy geranium, and slightly citrusy dimension to the accord.
- Eucalyptol: Contributes a camphoraceous and slightly minty aroma.
- Alpha Pinene: Offers a fresh, green pine leaf touch.
- D-Limonene: Adds a bright citrusy character and also enhances the overall vibrancy of the accord.
- Iso Bornyl Acetate: Contributes a fresh, piney, and slightly camphoraceous note, further enhancing the complexity of the accord.
- Polysantol: A smooth woody note reminiscent of sandalwood, it gives a woody character and acts as a blender in the formulation
- Camphor: Introduces a cool, penetrating, and slightly medicinal nuance.
- Gurjan Balsam Essential Oil (Dark): Adds warmth and depth with balsamic, woody notes
- Iso Borneol: Offers a woody, camphoraceous, and slightly earthy character.
- Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol: Further enhances with a sweet, rosy, and honey-like aroma.
- Sandalwood Acetate: Brins in a creamy, woody, and slightly milky note.
- Beta Pinene: Provides a final touch of herbaceous and woody freshness.
Why Choose this Accord?
- Cost-Effectiveness: Compared to natural Kewra oil, this base/accord offers an affordable option to add kewra notes into your creations.
- Seasonality and Availability: Kewra flowers are seasonal in nature. Using this base/accord ensures a consistent supply year-round.
- Batch Consistency: Naturals can vary batch to batch, but with this base/accord, you can maintain consistent quality and aroma.
Raw Materials
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Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether: 70g
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Terpinen-4-ol: 20g
-
Bois de Rose Leaf RCO: 5g
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Terpinyl Acetate Alpha: 2g
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Para Cymene: 1.5g
-
Eucalyptol: 1g
-
Polysantol (we used Firmenich): 0.5g
-
Total: 100g
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Phenyl Ethyl Methyl Ether: 67g
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Terpinen-4-ol: 20g
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Bois de Rose Leaf RCO: 5g
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Alpha Terpeniol: 2g
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Terpinyl Acetate Alpha: 0.25g
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Para Cymene: 1.6g
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Geraniol (we used BASF): 1.15g
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Eucalyptol: 1g
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Alpha Pinene: 0.4g
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D Limonene: 0.35g
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Iso Bornyl Acetate: 0.35g
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Polysantol (we used Firmenich): 0.2g
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Camphor: 0.15g
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Gurjan Balsam Essential Oil (Dark): 0.15g
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Iso Bourneol: 0.12g
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Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol: 0.1g
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Sandalwood Acetate: 0.1g
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Beta Pinene: 0.05g
-
Total: 100g
Kewra Accord Formula:
Kewra Base Formula:
Instructions
The above formulation has been computed for a total of 100g. Please change the quantities as per your batch size.
Recipe Note
Safety First:
Always dilute essential oils and fragrance compounds properly.Perform a skin patch test before applying any new fragrance to your skin.
Experiment and Create:
Feel free to experiment with these formulations, adjusting the proportions to personalize your Kewra accord. Perfumery is a journey of discovery, so embrace your creativity and see what unique fragrances you can create!
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Product Technical Info
| Technical Specs* |
| Available on request for Bulk Orders |
| *Please note: The technical specifications provided on this page have been listed manually and may contain occasional errors or require updates. If you notice discrepancies, we can relook at this data and/or work with the manufacturer to ensure accuracy of data. |
| Certificate of Anaylsis (COA)** |
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| ** Please note: The data provided on this page may be from an earlier batch and is for representative purpose only. For bulk orders exceeding 25kg, we can supply these ingredients along with COA. |